The idea of an expedition, to be completed within the shortest possible time, was conceived by the first President of Kyrgyzstan as a tribute to the memory of the American people and the tragic events of September 11th. The concept was further developed by the renowned writer Genghis Aitmatov and his son Askar, the former Minister of Foreign Affairs. The only thing left to put this idea into realization was to find people who would be willing and capable to chose a peak to be climbed and to undertake its hasty ascent, but also to film and broadcast a TV film in record time.


Blitz Mountain Campaign

By a stroke of luck, a person, skilled to perform such a task, was very close by, that is, in Kyrgyzstan. He was the author of the renowned TV series “Hour of Adventures” and the owner of a TV company IPV News USA Sergey Melnikoff.

The fact that IPV News USA is a US corporation only added to the symbolism of the campaign. Besides, its staff had experience in similar ascents. It is also worth remembering that, when in 1996 – the year of the Olympic Games in Atlanta – one of the peaks of the Pamir was named after the founder of the modern Olympics Pierre Coubertin, IPV News USA played a primary role in that audacious campaign. Moreover, its President, Sergey Melnikoff, is considered one of the best highland photographers and cameraman in the world.

The principal executor of the project having been chosen, there was still financing to be found. Where can one get such an amount? Is it possible, with only ten days on hand, to put together an expedition to execute an ascent with high-quality TV coverage, then edit a film to make it a worthy gift from our country’s President of Kyrgyzstan to the people of the great country of the USA?

There was barely one week left before the launch of this grand campaign; and no time left to take care of any legal formalities. Directly from the office of the Head of the Ministry, Melnikoff began to call different countries where he could find people necessary for the implementation of the project. One hour later, the two largest US TV companies confirmed their offer of air time for the new film. Within another hour, the news came that every IPV News USA collaborator was ready, including the composer, the writer, the director…

This is the story of how the expedition “Peak of September 11” was born.


Weather on Request

Finally, the entire film and expedition crew, showed up at the location of the main event, Ala-Bel Pass, at an altitude of approximately 3,250 meters above sea level. The mountains greeted us rather chilly, with heavy fog, visibility of 200 meters, and a thick layer of snow. So we donned our winter outfits – down pants and bright-yellow down jackets. Yet, as soon as we cleared the place for our tents, the sun came out, the snow around melted and everything began to sparkle in magic colors.

And now Sergey began his “weather to order” rite. I had heard earlier that he has a special gift to “create weather” – to cause clouds to rupture, the sun to show its gleam on a horribly overcast day– but I did not believe it. Throughout the following couple of days, not once did I become a witness to his peculiar gift of weather forecast “to order”. This time he was about to decide on the weather for tomorrow, during our ascent to the adjoining mountain, from where we were to film the panoramic view of the entire ridge. “Well, tomorrow morning, there is going to be fog and dampness. Then, on our way to the mountain – light clouds, to help us stay sweat-free, and on the top – some breeze for our flags, and the sun for our beautiful plan, thereafter –it is up to you,” – Melnikoff made an unusual gesture, pointing his hand toward the celestial waiter. “And now I need the views over the peaks.”

And would you believe it?!? Half an hour later, the weather, that had seemed impenetrable, magically cleared up. The clouds broke open, and the bright rays of light beamed through the ruptures.

To the right of the campsite, covered with a cap of snow and ice, stood the peak of 4,000 meters; on the left, was a mountain of 3,700 meters high that closely resembled the shape of a pyramid. The two were connected by a long zigzag ridge with several gendarmes (an isolated protruding rock tower encountered along a ridge), with two kilometers separating them.

We took a look at the map and – that’s right! Here they are. And the first one – is the tallest mountain in the part of Talas Ala-Too.

Wasting no time, Sergey set up to take the largest wide-shot photographs of both peaks. Out of his multiple boxes he took out a huge camera with an equally huge lens. Took a few shots, changed the camera for another, even larger one.

Just slightly later, all of us were running back and forth, our backpacks heavy on our backs and dark sunglasses on our faces. We simulated the ascent in front of the video camera. That was enough to form a crowd of gapers, consisting of a few drivers and passengers of passing cars. “This is how it feels to get star fever”, -- were my immediate thoughts.


How Many Takes Is Enough for a Good Movie?

September 3, 7 am. The preparations to conquer the height of 3,700 m are under way, for all its worth. We had good reasons to choose this peak to be the first to climb it. First, this mountain is not difficult; its height is not great. From its summit we will be able to clearly see the paths to the main peak. And most importantly, this way we can first test our fitness level and stamina.

9 am. We are at the foot of the mountain.

“Everyone back, fast! One more take…”

Obediently, we all slide a few meters down and repeat the climb, one by one.

“Cut!”

9.40 am. Somewhere midway up the mountain we find a small plateau. During a short break, while we are getting “refueled” with the juice, the sun suddenly appears in the sky. Remember yesterday’s weather request?

10.30 am. We cross the rocks and find ourselves at the foot of a small peak. Andrey Kuzin – our high-altitude expert and chief Sherpa – shoves a wide flag of Kyrgyzstan into my hands.

I hook the lower end of the flag to my backpack and proudly lift the upper end above my head, waiting for further instruction.

10.50 am. The cameras are ready, and with the flags waving in the wind, we are on our way to conquering our first pinnacle!

While Andrey is busy installing flagpoles, Anastassia and I are preparing a cairn to put a note inside with the names of the climbers.

Take! Disassembling. Putting together…One more time. Taking apart. Reassembling... Writing a note, putting it into the capsule, the capsule goes under the cairn. Take!

Looking into the camera. Smile! Take! Writing a note, putting it in the capsule, the capsule under the cairn ... This is repeated over and over again, dozens of times.

Sergey is filming a close-up.


The Ascent

The following morning was the highlight and the climax of the expedition. That day would determine the success of the entire campaign. Will we achieve our main objective? Will Kyrgyzstan be remembered as a land of the most beautiful mountains, rather than a country where the American airbase Gansi is located?

“Folks, rise and shine!” – a cheerful yet commanding voice came from outside the tent.

The weather is lousy. Everything around is damp. Absolutely no desire to leave my sleeping bag. Washed up in haste with ice-cold water, we get down to breakfast.

We are walking for more than an hour. Sergey and Nastya are lagging behind. Only Andrey is in front of me, heading forward to install flagpoles on the peak, before the rest of the filming crew and the “extras” reach the top.

The weather is unpredictable – now snow, now sun. Tired of changing clothes every ten minutes. Along the vertical line we covered half of the way, in a straight line –only one third. Waiting for the others.

From behind a rock, a familiar hat suddenly appears:

“Take Anastassia by her hands and drag her behind those rocks out there.”

The camera again. More takes. It is a wrap! Finally…

From here to the western ridge we have to climb on extremely steep, loose couloir. We are moving very cautiously. A step – and the stone under my foot did not budge. Another step – and the stones began falling down like heavy rain, taking me along with them. But somehow I manage to keep on my feet. Another step. This is no longer a movie, these are not takes – we are really climbing. It takes us almost an hour to cover half a kilometer of the couloir.

We have reached the west ridge, which is approximately one kilometer away from the pinnacle. Far away in the fog, on the ridge, we can see Andrey’s silhouette, with the dismantled flagpoles tied to his backpack. As soon as we sit down to take a rest, we hear a voice "from heaven": “Up and at’em! Get up and walk towards the camera!”

1. 10pm.I lift my head and see that the fog that has been hiding the peak has now broken up. And at the very top, are flying state flags of Kyrgyzstan and the USA! Although, still at half-mast, until the arrival of our commander–in-chief.

15 minutes later, breathing heavily, I am holding on to a flagpole at an altitude of exactly 4,000 meters, or, as Americans say, - 12 thousand feet above sea level. That’s it! From now on, it is just a piece of cake – to film the remaining material, to say a few words of greeting to the American audience, and down the mountain. But when the fog around has scattered away, I notice something totally amazing – we are standing only 20 meter away form another peak. The upper part of the mountain range is like a snow-ice tower with two copulas – the western and the northern. And we ended up on the western one.

How about that! Two peaks of 4,000 meters each, symbolizing the two collapsed World Trade Center towers on September 11… Mysticism or the professionalism of the director?

1.50 pm. The entire crew is assembled. Sergey, having reached the flags, suddenly asks me: “Well, did you have a chance to see?”

He knew about the eastern peak! But it was not possible to see it from the camp. One can only wonder how Melnikoff finds such pinnacles and "orders" weather.

Anastassia is very tired, but refuses to show any signs of fatigue. Well done! And she is only 13 years old!

The weather has turned absolutely miserable. The strong wind and snow are furiously hitting the face. In my hands I hold flags so large that on the mountain top, with chilly winds blowing from all sides, it is hard not to let them go. Despite this, we are solemnly hoisting giant banners: Anastassia – for the United States, I – for Kyrgyzstan.

There are no more takes. Sergey is trying to film everything all at once, all in one breath. A photo camera, a video camera, a photo camera again. Everything should be done quickly. Already familiar notes, capsules, cairn. With her frozen little hands, Anastassia takes a previously secured candle out of her down jacket and is trying to light the symbol of sorrow. Only on the sixth attempt is she successful in lighting a tiny wick, for just a second.

The time fuses into one long monotony. It is so cold that I begin to forget words of my native language. With great effort and after several attempts, against the backdrop of the state insignia, I speak into the camera, stating that I officially assign this peak the name “Peak of September 11". Anastassia says the same words in English.

By using the portable satellite system GPS we have identified the coordinates of the peak. It is 42 degrees 14 minutes 46 seconds north latitude and 73 degrees 06 minutes 15 seconds east longitude. This information will be handed over to the Administration of Cartography of the Kyrgyz Republic.

For the sake of formalities, we took a quick run to the eastern peak.

This mountain is now also conquered!


Azamat Imanaliev